Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
